Even though the stated goal of our summer holiday in Cornwall was to just soak up as much of ‘that Cornish coast life’ as we could, we still wanted to take in a few tourist sights along the way as well.
Enter St Michael’s Mount.
We had heard of St Michael’s Mount before the trip and it definitely intrigued us, but it wasn’t until we saw this castle-on-an-island shimmering in the water across the bay from Penzance that we knew we had to pay it a visit.
But how to get from Penzance to St Michael’s Mount? We walked, of course! Yes, you can take a bus from Penzance to Marazion, but what’s the fun in that when there is a well-trodden section of the legendary Southwest Coast Path that goes straight from Penzance to St Michael’s Mount?
The stroll takes a little over an hour each way, and is completely flat, so there really is no excuse. And even if the weather is a little bit on the blustery side the day you choose to take the walk, that just makes for an excuse to duck into The Hoxton Special for a beachside coffee.
Pro tip: stick as close to the coast as you possibly can as you leave Penzance, or you could end up walking for a considerable amount of time on the side of a busy road as a friendly woman waves to you frantically from the path while pointing out the nearest access point.
Trust me, it can happen to anyone.
Probably around this point you may be starting to think that St Michael’s Mount seems to have a lot in common with France’s world famous Mont Saint-Michel. And you would definitely be right. Both tidal islands were places of pilgrimage in medieval times and both were said to have hosted appearances by St Michael. In fact, at one point St Michael’s Mount in Cornwall was actually under the possession of the same monks from Mont Saint-Michel in France.
But enough history, let’s talk about what you can expect at St Michael’s Mount today.
Once you arrive in Marazion, which is a pretty agreeable albeit overrun little town, you can either walk across the ancient pilgrim path to the tidal island (if the tide is out), or take a quick and easy boat ride across the water (if the tide is in) like we did.
The fee is £2 each way, and they only accept cash, so come prepared with coins.
Once on St Michael’s Mount, the main attraction is most certainly the gorgeous castle, which romantically sits atop the island and can be visited for a fee, but there are plenty of other things to see and do as well.
What to Do at St Michael’s Mount
Pick Up a Pasty – As we were pretty hungry from the walk, we immediately decided to grab lunch, and couldn’t have been more happy with our decision. Eating at cafes inside tourist sights is definitely a risky proposition, but the Island Cafe did us right. The decor was beach chic and full of little Instagrammable touches that seem to be all the rage with interior design companies nowadays, and my cream tea and the husband’s Cornish pasty were both solid choices.
Visit the Gardens – This vast green space overlooking the sea is full of exotic plants has been blooming since 1780. Unfortunately, it was was closed the day we visited but I was told that due to its location literally in the middle of the Gulf Stream, the gardens have their own special micro-climate, and plants like Puya, agapanthus agave, and even aloe can thrive.
Be Enthralled by the Barge House – Usually when you stroll into a visitor’s centre and a video is playing, you watch it for a couple of minutes and then walk on. Well, not the one playing at the harborside Barge House. Featuring spectacular aerial footage and moving music, the video details the lives of the 35 islanders who reside on the Mount and emotionally explains why they love living there.
Hunt for the Heart – In local Cornish legend, St Michael’s Mount was the home of Cormoran, the giant from the Jack the Giant Killer fairytale. As you walk the path from the harbour to the castle, keep an eye on the ground for a rock in the shape of a heart – it is said to belong to the giant.
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