Salzburg Christmas Market and The Krampus

You know what I’m thankful for this Christmas? I’m thankful that I come from England and not some other parts of Europe, where the Krampus roams.

I’m thankful that all we have to deal with as little kids is the thought that an elf decided our fate when it comes to presents. Little elves with tinkly bells on the ends of their shoes and a fat old man with a bushy beard. That is the vision we go to bed with in our heads on the 24th December.

Not so in Austria, where much darker demons lurk.

You see, in certain parts of Europe, Saint Nicholas (Father Christmas) is said to watch over little children with the help of the Krampus – a beast-like creature who punishes misbehaved children and rewards those who have been good with gifts. The Krampus’ carry rusty chains and bells to alert people of their presence, as well as leather whips which they use on naughty children.

To say that these things are scary is an understatement. Even grown adults get scared by the Krampus.

We were lucky to be at the Salzburg Christmas market on the eve of the 5th December / day of the 6th (which is Saint Nicholas Day), one of the busiest nights of the year for the Krampus, who at that point decide the fate of all of the children.

There was a play put on by local actors depicting Saint Nicholas arriving at a family home, accompanied by two Krampus’, who were anxiously swishing their whips and waiting to punish the two children, who, unfortunately for them, turned out to have been very good.

After that, there was a parade of over 50 different Krampus from different regions of the country. Young men tend to play the part of the Krampus and wear the big, hairy costumes and masks, although sometimes children are recruited to play the part as well.

We obviously couldn’t understand any of what was being said during the play and the procession, but we could get the gist. And the gist was: do not get on the wrong side of the Krampus.

Seriously, if I was a child, I’d be good all year round, not just in December, lest I should incur the wrath of these beasts.

It was fantastic to be in the city at this time of year and witness this celebration and we were lucky that we even got snow while we were at the markets (our third market experience to have snow, which was fantastic).

Despite only seeing a small part of Salzburg (the centre of town and the markets), it was so pretty that I will definitely be planning a return visit. Next time, I’d try and be there when the Krampus wasn’t around, you know, just in case.

Many thanks to the Austrian Tourism Board who helped us plan this fantastic trip.